Hoopless Embroidery Finishing

Working without a hoop when making free-form embroidery has its advantages. It may be easier on your hands if there is no hoop to grip while stitching. Improvised designs are more organic and less stiff-looking. And you can use fabrics like felt and wool that would be marked by the hoop leaving creases.

Fine Line Tree #15 by Laura Wasilowski

But there are also disadvantages when stitching fabrics without a hoop. The most obvious is that the fabric will become distorted like this example on wool called Fine Line Tree #15. Intense stitchery in the area of the fields pulls the blue wool fabric skewing the edges. While less intense stitchery in the sky area maintains the original squared shape. My solution to square it up upon completion? Stitch it to a rectangular piece of green felt.

Bayeux Garden #2 by Laura Wasilowski

Here you see Bayeux Garden #2 another embroidery on wool that ended up with uneven edges. If the piece had only been slightly skewed, I could have flipped the embroidery over onto a thick felt pressing mat and tugged and steamed the edges square. Instead, I embraced the wonky and stitched it to a rectangle of yellow batik fabric that is backed with batting and later machine quilted.

So why not embrace the wonky? By embracing the wonky nature of the piece you acknowledge the “handmade” nature of the embroidery. No machine created these pieces of artwork. Human hands brought them into being.

How to Pack Softly

One of the mysteries of travel is how to pack a suitcase. For me, there are three big concerns: weight, keeping things dry, and packing so nothing breaks while en route. My lightweight cloth suitcase with wheels is my go-to companion on trips. And having seen my luggage sitting on the tarmac in a heavy rainstorm, I know that everything in my suitcase must be in a plastic bag.

And then there is breakage. In the past my hand-dyed threads were displayed in plastic trays at a venue. And often I returned with the plastic trays cracked or broken by the airline baggage system. But finally I came up with a soft, lightweight, non-breakable solution- fabric trays.

How to Make a Quick Fabric Tray

  • Choose an old quilt that is hankering for a new life. The quilts I’m using measure about 20 inches by 20 inches.
  • Fold the quilt with the right sides together at each corner. Stitch across the folded quilt at about 3 inches from where the sides meet to the fold.
  • You may want to use the walking foot on your machine.
  • Roll the corner flaps back to reveal the pretty quilt interior.
  • Fill the fabric trays with beautiful hand-dyed threads.
  • Enjoy your flight!

Protect Your Mat from Decorative Blades

Are you using decorative blades in your rotary cutters? Decorative blades make wonderful embellished edges for your fused art quilts. They come in wave, scallop, and, my favorite, the delightful pinking blade

But beware! Decorative blades can damage your cutting mats. Here you see a cutting mat on the right that has been scored by decorative blades. See how the decorative blades have gouged into the mat?

When you cut with a decorative blade you have to push a little harder to cut cleanly into the fabric. This means the blade will etch into the mat and mess up your grid lines.

Save the grid! Flip that mat over and cut your fabric on the wrong side of the mat. You’ll save your mat and you can use a pinking blade to create fun fabric edges like these.

Check out how I’ve used the pinking blade to create this decorative fused binding here.